By Christine Imbs
Gazing at the St. Louis skyline from the east side one has to be impressed; but enjoying the view while sipping a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon on the eighth-floor terrace of Cielo at the new Four Seasons Hotel is like seeing it for the first time—simply amazing.
"We have a completely unobstructed view of the Gateway Arch and river," says Amanda Cook, director of public relations for the Four Seasons. "So whether you're sitting at the bar, outside on the terrace or inside the restaurant, it's all about the view."
Well, not entirely. True, Cielo's eighth-floor perch on Laclede's Landing with its wall-to-ceiling windows and outside terrace offer one of the city's most dramatic views of Eero Saarinen's masterpiece. In fact, it's the first thing that catches your eye after you step off the elevator. But it's once you've picked your jaw up off the ground and actually enter the restaurant that you begin to realize Cielo is unlike anything St. Louis has seen before.
Decidedly upscale, the décor within the restaurant and bar is comfortably modern with soothing blues and browns, and rich woods throughout. Of course if you prefer fine dining under stars, there's the terrace complete with a reflection pool and a sitting area for after dinner drinks.
"It's really an amazing place. People have commented that they don't even feel like they're in St. Louis," Cook says. "It's just a completely different vibe than anything
else downtown."
Cielo (pronounced chee-eh-lo) is Italian for sky, thus referring to that breath taking view. But it can also mean heaven.
And once you've tasted Chef Karen Hoffman's take on continental Italian cuisine, that's exactly what you'll be thinking—heavenly.
From the very beginning you'll notice that although strikingly plated, the food is really quite simple. Hoffman says the reason
is "with continental Italian cuisine the focus is on extremely fresh ingredients, simply prepared and perfectly." She suggests for a first time diner at Cielo to start with the Mortadella, a wonderful dish of hand-made salamis ($16), and the steamed mussels with lightly spiced fennel, white wine broth and lemon aioli ($16). Both are meant for sharing, because as Hoffman says, "Food and the whole experience of dining are meant
to be shared. "Next she suggests the Chioggia beet salad with ricotta salata, arugula and citrus vinaigrette ($11), or the oxtail ravioli ($16). "The ravioli lets the natural richness of the oxtail shine," she explains. When it comes to an entrée, Hoffman has difficulty choosing among the veal saltimbucca ($33); the slow-baked organic salmon ($27); and the lobster risotto ($28). All are superbly prepared and unique in both flavor and presentation. A particular favorite among patrons, the lobster risotto is also available as a first course ($19). As for dessert—and you absolutely must save room for dessert—Pastry Chef Christopher Jordan's Cherry Budino ($8) is not to be missed. It's an amazing cherry-chocolate pudding with fresh cherries, chocolate cream, and vanilla gelato. If anything Cielo has to offer can out rival the view, it's
this dessert.
Of course Cielo has a good selection of Italian wines along with a varied selection of California wines. Altogether there are 160
labels priced $30 and up per bottle. However there are a mix of half bottles, and guests can also try some expensive bottles by the glass—Flowers Chardonnay ($19), Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), and Fattoria Di Felsina Chianti ($18).
Of course, even the finest meal can be ruined if the service is not up to par. But at Cielo the staff is attentive without being intrusive, knowledgeable and friendly. And whether you're there for the complete dinner experience, or simply coffee and dessert,
the staff seems eager to please. But then, that's exactly what you'd expect from any Four Seasons restaurant and hotel—great service and excellent food. As for the view
. . . well, that’s purely St. Louis.
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TalkingPOINTS
Cielo
999 N. Second St.
St. Louis, Mo. 63102
Phone : (314) 881-5800
www.fourseasons.com/stlouis/dining.html
Hours:
Breakfast : 6:30 to 10:30 a.m.
Lunch : 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner : 6 to 10 p.m. |
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