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Cyrano's
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By Christine Imbs
The third time may be the charm, but for those who remember decadent desserts, lattes and romantic first dates, the reopening of Cyrano’s Café and Wine Bar in Webster Groves is a stroll down memory lane.
 Carolyn Downs, owner, Cyrano’s Café and Wine Bar. |
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“Memories are generally what first attracts people to Cyrano’s,” says owner Carolyn Downs. “They remember our extraordinary desserts. But we’ve also had quite a few people come back because they were engaged at the original Cyrano’s.”
The original Cyrano’s opened about 40 years ago in a dark, romantic rathskellar located at Clayton and DeMun avenues. It was St. Louis’s first and only European-style coffeehouse offering small portion sizes, exotic coffees and outrageous desserts. Waiting in long lines for the experience was not unusual.
“My husband Charlie and I used to wait in line just like everybody else. It was a romantic, fun place,” says Downs. “It was there for about 17 years when an electrical fire totaled the building.”
The bistro reopened on Big Bend near the Esquire Theater. Downs, a pastry chef, was hired by the new owner, while her husband was brought on as a consultant. When it closed about four years later, they bought the business hoping to reopen it when they found the right location.
“We’ve always loved Cyrano’s and wanted to reopen it. So when we saw the For Lease sign at the Alpine Shop on Big Bend, we got excited,” explains Downs. “It was serendipity.”
Today’s Cyrano’s is a far cry from the original, at least in décor. Where the original was very dark, romantic and old world, the new is done in pinks, purples and bright colors. In addition to a dining area, there’s also a coffee bar and a lounge complete with a fireplace. But remnants of the old still remain. Marble tables, mirrors, artwork and antiques from the original are everywhere. Also returning is the bronze statue of the bistro’s namesake, Cyrano de Bergerac, and the desserts.
Don’t forget the desserts.
Making a comeback is Cyrano’s famous Cleopatra. It’s a huge ice cream sundae with five scoops of French vanilla ice cream, bananas, fresh strawberries, rum sauce and whipped cream, all for $8.95. Although some try to tackle it alone, it’s definitely a two-person job. So are the flambés, another old favorite, especially for first dates. There are three to choose from—Cherries Jubilee, Bananas Cyrano, or Strawberry Cyrano. At $18.95 these flaming delights are made to be shared and sure to impress.
New to the dessert menu are the continental pastries. All are single servings and run $6.50. The Caramel Brioche Bread Pudding served warm with a cherry bourbon sauce is a big favorite. So are the Apple Tarte Tatin, a caramelized apple in a puffed pastry, and the Lemon Cake with Oven-Roasted Berries. For something a bit lighter, a seasonal fruit plate is also available for $8.
| John Gleason, waiter. |
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But man does not live by dessert alone. Cyrano’s also serves a casual, simple cuisine they call “bistro-style,” which is reminiscent of the small plates offered at the original. There are 11 “Appetizers and Small Plates” on the menu, ranging in price from $5.95 for the New Orleans BBQ Shrimp, to $9.95 for the Smokey Chicken Roll with Chipotle Cream Cheese. A good variety of soups, salads and sandwiches are also available for under $10, including Cyrano’s famous Special Roast Beef, Mozzarella and Swiss Cheese sandwich for $6.50.
Chalkboard specials are available for lunch and dinner and change daily. They range from $6.95 to $10.95 for lunch and up to $12.95 for dinner. Downs says the plates are a bit bigger, but they leave plenty of room for dessert: “Our meals are light so you can splurge on something a bit more sinful.”
TalkingPOINT
Cyrano’s Café and Wine Bar
603 East Lockwood Avenue
Webster Groves
(314) 963-3232
Hours:
11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday
11 a.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays
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