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DEMAND
FOR SPECIALTY BREAD ON THE RISE
By Laurie Burstein
Today’s consumers care more than ever about what they eat and how
it is made. In keeping with this trend, the demand for high-quality,
artisan bread is on the rise.
Josh Allen, founder and owner of Companion Baking Company, says
the art of bread making is returning to its roots. Consumers want
more handmade specialty breads and less mass- produced bread with
chemicals and preservatives. He says today’s artisan bread trend
has to do with the appreciation of ingredients, quality and the
manufacturing process. Allen is part of the Bread Bakers Guild of
America, dedicated to providing information and education regarding
artisan bread making.
JOSH ALLEN, president, Companion Baking Company |
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In 1993, Allen began Companion Baking Company in St. Louis at the
age of 23 after spending several years in San Francisco learning
the craft of making specialty breads and pastries. Nearly 10 years
later, Companion is a $5 million company and delivers fresh bread
every day to its 250-plus wholesale customers, including restaurants,
country clubs, hospitals, schools and grocery stores. In April,
the company opened a restaurant in Clayton, and recently opened
a bakery operation in Kansas City.
“There is a return to tradition in bread making,” Allen explains.
“We consider ourselves a specialty bake shop. Human hands are involved
in every stage of our bread making process although there is some
automation. Only the best natural ingredients are used, without
chemicals and additives. All of these factors contribute to making
the best tasting specialty breads.”
Buying stylish, fresh bread is also as easy as going to the grocery
store. Bill Mihu, vice president for 28 years of baking operations
at Schnucks, says customers like upscale, crusty, unique breads.
Schnucks now carries LaBrea Bread from California. To make the bread
taste even fresher, a process called “par” baked, short for partially
baked, is used. The bread is 90 percent baked and then flash frozen
before being shipped to Schnucks. The bread is then baked daily
at each Schnucks store. Varieties include rosemary olive, pecan
raisin, whole grain, Italian and French Baguette.
Artisan bread costs more because the flour and manufacturing process
are more expensive. But for many, the extra $1 to $2 is worth it
to have the best tasting bread. It also doesn’t last as long because
there are no preservatives, but it can be frozen at home and warmed
in the oven or toaster.
Companion
Bakehouse and Café in Clayton offers fresh-baked breads,
pastries, specialty cakes, and daily breakfast and
lunch menu. |
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There’s still nothing like going to the corner bakery for a loaf
of fresh bread and Knodel’s Bakery and Catering has the dough. Knodel’s
recently celebrated 101 years in business with two St. Louis locations:
North County at 6621 W. Florissant Rd. and West County at 14231
Manchester Rd. Ned Inglish runs the bakery and has been with Knodel’s
for 48 years. His wife’s grandfather started the bakery in 1901.
Inglish says he, too, has seen a return to European, artisan-type
breads. Knodel’s makes several kinds of specialty bread, such as
a rye and white twist. They also make sweet breads such as Hawaiian
bread with pineapple and pecans. Knodel’s has even flown in special
flour from New York for pumpernickel bread. Customers call in advance
for these special orders.
Knodel’s customers also call ahead to have special colored bread
made for occasions such as weddings. Knodel’s can match the bread
to the color scheme of the event. And for the Super Bowl, Knodel’s
makes blue and gold bread. Last year, Inglish won a contest in the
Missouri Botanical Garden’s “Best of Missouri” contest for his shortening
bread.
“St. Louis is truly blessed to have so many great bakeries right
here,” Inglish says. “Like my wife’s grandfather, several immigrants
came here from Switzerland or Germany and started bakeries in true
European style. The tradition carries on today.”
With a nod to traditional bread making, there are more choices and
venues for getting the best bread in town. It’s not just the same
old loaf anymore.
Laurie Burstein is a St. Louis-based free-lance writer.
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