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OCEANO BISTRO
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By Sarah B. Smith
Oceano Bistro owner Amer Abouwarder is no stranger to the restaurant
world. He has helped open 21 new establishments in his career.
In Oceano Bistro, he has created a jewel that one senses benefits
from the lessons learned throughout that career—an attractive
restaurant offering wonderfully fresh fish and seafood, attentive
service and at reasonable prices.
Abouwarder has sought to fill a niche in the St. Louis market
by offering really fresh fish and seafood. Most of his fish
is flown in daily from Hawaii and Alaska and arrives, at most,
36 hours out of the ocean. Mussels from Prince Edward Island
and scallops from the Georges Bank add to the offerings that
Chef Jon Lowe creates.
The setting for Oceano Bistro is at the corner of North Brentwood
and Maryland, a short walk for many in Clayton’s downtown district.
Abouwarder oversaw extensive renovations to the space and created
a warm setting that includes a comfortable veranda with large
glass windows that open to the sidewalk, a main dining room
that includes Chihuly works, and a small comfortable bar that
welcomes those waiting for their tables. And for those interested
in the dynamics of food preparation, Oceano’s kitchen is open
to view. On a bustling Saturday evening, you can see how eight
to 10 cooks and one creative chef orchestrate dinners for more
than 300.
From detailed color and lighting studies, to travels throughout
Europe and the Middle East for design inspiration, Abouwarder
took great pride in planning the finishes of Oceano Bistro.
Warm tones of mustard, brown and orange combine with arched
ceilings and subtle lighting to set the tone for a casual and
comfortable dining experience. With seating for 160, Oceano
Bistro welcomes a variety of diners, from those seeking a special
evening, to couples looking for a weekday dinner out, to families
with young children.
Evenings at Oceano have become quite busy, so reservations are
definitely recommended, especially if you are interested in
being seated in the very popular veranda.
For “beginnings,” as Oceano’s call their appetizers, the Maryland
jumbo lump crab cakes ($11) have been one of the most popular
items on the menu. And for good reason. They are the real thing—made
with 95 percent lump crabmeat, and just a touch of seasoning.
The Bistro Mussels ($9), which are prepared with white wine
and shallot, are also a terrific choice.
Oceano’s fish and seafood selections vary depending on what
their fishermen/suppliers are catching, but if recent visits
are an indication, you won’t be disappointed with the generously
portioned options. The bistro’s grilled jumbo sea scallops at
$16 were succulent as was the grilled swordfish ($19). Oceano’s
vegetables are as fresh as the fish, with most coming from local
sources. Served a la carte ($4 to $6), they include such choices
as sautéed green beans and sautéed spinach with Alma bacon.
Oceano’s lunch menu includes many of their dinner selections,
in addition to sandwiches ($6 to $12), such as crispy oyster
po-boy, Irish smoked salmon BLT, and a Mediterranean chicken
Panini.
There are numerous salad selections ($3 to $11) for both lunch
and dinner. The red chile rock shrimp chop salad (served with
prosciutto bits, hard cooked egg and avocado in a creamy tarragon
sauce) is one of Oceano’s most frequently requested. Their spinach
and wild salmon salad (served with Gorgonzola cheese, pomme
frittes and toasted hazelnuts) was my favorite.
Saturday and Sunday brunch is a welcome new addition to Oceano’s.
Many items from their regular menu are available, with the addition
of popular morning specialties such as bagels and smoked salmon,
and Brioche French toast with blueberry maple syrup. Eggs Benedict
Oscar—their version with generous amounts of crabmeat—is their
most requested brunch item. And for those in a really hungry
mode, try Jonah Crab and Tomato Frittata—five fresh eggs with
plum tomatoes, caramelized onions and warm crabmeat.
One final note: Oceano not only features an extensive wine list,
but a nice touch includes a sampling of several choices if you
see more than one you like.
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TalkingPOINTS
Oceano Bistro
44 North Brentwood
Clayton, MO 63105
(314) 721-9400
www.oceanobistro.com
Open for lunch and dinner
Monday – Thursday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday – Saturday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Sunday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Brunch:
Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Reservations recommended
Valet parking available evenings |
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