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WEIGHING IN AT 64
OUNCES
KREIS' RESTAURANT
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George Tompras
and his sister, Renee Bogdanos, were raised in the restaurant business.
Taking over Kreis’ Restaurant from their father, Byron, who died
in 1989, the pair has worked hard to keep alive his passion for
food.
Tompras, who is of Greek descent, says food is in his blood. “The
reason why you see so many Greeks…go into the restaurant business
is because they are typically very proud, strong-willed and independent
people who are also very passionate about food,” Tompras says. “They
have a concept of family which they extend to their customers.”
Tompras learned his craft at the Culinary Institute of America in
Hyde Park, N.Y., studying under the finest master chefs in the world.
“Cooking is an art; I have to feel it and play with it before I
get the finished product,” he says. “If you know how to do the cooking
yourself, and how to improve it, then you have more control over
your business.”
George Tompras and his sister, Renee Bogdanos, of
Kreis’ were raised in the restaurant business. |
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For Tompras, being innovative is critical. “Although the recipes
for clam chowder and Oscar sauce have remained the same over the
years, we are constantly trying new sauces for our fish and seafood
dishes,” he says. “Everyone in the kitchen—including the waiters—samples
new dishes and provides input into the process.”
The restaurant—which was originally owned by Fred Kreis, who retired
in the 1960s —has kept its menu fresh over the years. The appetizer
list includes chilled pickled herring in cream, “jumbo lump” crab
cake, French-fried eggplant, smoked Maine salmon, and chilled Gulf
jumbo shrimp—all for under $10.
But the main event, of course, is the steaks. Tompras says the meat
is aged on-premises for three to six weeks before being served.
“Not all meat is equal,” he says. “We use Grade-A corn-fed animals
from Omaha (Neb.).”
Leading the charge is the prime rib. Kreis’ Extra Cut weighs in
at an astonishing 64 ounces and is sliced five inches thick ($49.95).
The standard cut is a “mere” two-inch slice, weighing 32 ounces
($26.95). The New York strip is available in 16 ounces or 32 ounces
($24.95 and $49.95), and the filet mignon can be ordered in a 12-
or 20-ounce cut ($26.95 or $44.95). Other options include a 22-ounce
porterhouse ($27.95), veal Oscar ($21.95) and charbroiled Colorado
lamb chops ($28.95).
But Kreis’ isn’t just for meat lovers. “Dad first introduced fish,
and we need to continue to be conscientious about people’s dietary
needs,” Tompras says. “We wouldn’t have the volume of customers
[we do] if we weren’t sensitive to their changing needs.” Favorites
include the seafood platter (lobster tail, shrimp, scallops, and
filet of sole for $29.95), Alaskan king crab (market price), and
Icelandic cod Oscar ($17.95).
Chef Alessandra Bozzato, from Venice, Italy, says Tompras gives
him the freedom to explore and offer new specials. “We change the
fresh catch of the day accordingly,” Bozzato says. “In the spring,
we offer soft-shell crab and snapper; and in the winter, halibut,
lobster and salmon tend to be more popular.”
No matter what time of year, Kreis’ always serves what Bozzato calls,
“German staples,” dishes such as Vienna schnitzel ($19.95) and schnitzel
a la Holstein ($20.95), which many of the restaurant’s long-term
customers expect and enjoy. All entrees come with a choice of potato,
rice pilaf or fresh vegetables and special sauce. An assortment
of salads (including, of course, Greek, with feta cheese and olives)
with homemade dressings are also available to complement any meal.
Naturally, Kreis’ offers a wide variety of wines from their extensive
cellar. Popular Cabernet Sauvignons include a 2000 Silverado from
the Napa Valley ($55), and a 2000 Jordan from the Alexander Valley
($75). For Merlot lovers, the top pick is a 2000 Robert Sinskey
($40).
For dessert, try the homemade apple strudel ($3.95), the cheesecake
with strawberries ($4.50), or the old-fashion fudge cake ($4.95).
If you’re having a hard time deciding, let the waiters help – at
Kreis’ they know as much about the food as the chefs. “Since our
waiters are our connection between the customers and the kitchen,
it is important that they are both knowledgeable and proud of the
food we serve,” Tompras says.
The attention to detail pays off. Smoke Magazine in 1999
listed Kreis’ among “The 10 Top Steak Houses in the U.S.,” placing
the restaurant in the same company as the Peter Luger Steakhouse
in New York and The Palm Restaurant in Washington D.C.
Both Tompras and Bogdanos spend many of their waking hours at Kreis’.
Their mother, Angie, also assists in the office. “Working together
every day is great,” says Bogdanos. “We were raised in the business
and we care about each other. Never change a winning combination.”
More info:
Kreis’ Restaurant, 535 South
Lindbergh Blvd.
Telephone: (314) 993-0735
Serving dinner nightly 5 to 10:30 p.m., Monday through Friday; 5
to 11:30 p.m. Saturday; 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations recommended.
Entrée range: $14.95 to $49.95
On the Net: www.kreisrestaurant.com
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