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BUSCH'S GROVE REVISITED
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By Sarah B. Smith
It was a major coup for Busch’s Grove Proprietor Lester Miller to attract acclaimed architect David Rockwell from New York to help him on his $10 million venture to create an exquisite dining experience on the very site where quite a different Busch’s Grove once stood.
Miller, the successful entrepreneur who founded Contico International before selling it in 1999, decided to embark on
yet another career at 74 as developer/entrepreneur/restaurateur, and in the process rescued what had been a treasured St. Louis institution.
 Lester Miller, proprietor, Busch’s Grove |
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Rather then simply undertake a renovation, Miller and his partners—Pedro Beltranena, Donald Tamillo, David Miller and Todd Weisz—set about to create a unique sense of place and recruited a world-class architect to help them translate their vision. Rockwell and his team at the Rockwell Group have designed such notable destinations as Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant in New Orleans, The Kodak Theatre for the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Hollywood, Cirque du Soleil’s building at Walt Disney World, and the new Pittsburg Steelers Stadium. The Rockwell Group is also credited with the set designs for such Broadway musicals as Hairspray and Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.
At the new Busch’s Grove, Rockwell drew inspiration from the original building and has created different dining concepts for patrons to enjoy. The coziest location in the restaurant is the Grove Room, which actually occupies the footprint of the original restaurant. The rich wood walls are lined from floor to ceiling with a fine selection of wine. The warmth of the room is complemented by a selection of stunning Baccarat crystal sculptures.
The airy Cove Room is the main dining area and includes Yoshiyuki Miura’s impressive art installation of 8,500 pieces
of hanging granite, which appear to float from the ceiling. The perimeter ceiling is lined with thousands of backlit branches. The Cove Room is lined on its south wall with the contemporary versions of the cabanas that once graced the former restaurant. Providing private dining for eight to 12 persons each, the huts
feature intimate candlelight dining.
The focal point of the Millard Backerman Room, which has become a favorite for private parties, is an 18-foot wide elegant fireplace surrounded by solid Indian limestone walls.
The sushi bar at the restaurant’s entrance is sleek and inviting. With entertainment Wednesday through Saturday evenings, the adjacent bar and cocktail lounge have become popular gathering spots and great places to savor the sushi which starts at $2.50 a piece. Busch’s Grove offers eight different makimo rolls, including three delicious house specialties.
The exquisite dining setting is matched by an equally impressive menu selection of steak and seafood created by executive chef Todd Weisz and chef de cuisine Todd Lough. Appetizers include such signature dishes as a unique Crispy Lobster Oriental, which features large chunks of lobster delicately fried and served with ginger soy and Thai chili dipping sauces. Their jumbo lump crab cakes served with grilled corn, black bean, pepper relish and mulato chili aioli have become another favorite.
For an entree, try one of the house specialties—the Prime Aged New York Strip which is served with sautéed spinach, oven dried tomatoes and burgundy wine sauce. Also receiving great reviews are the Grilled Double Colorado Lamb Chops with goat cheese polenta, ratatouille and roast garlic rosemary sauce. In a seafood mood? Their salmon is served simply grilled or with toasted almond couscous, grilled vegetables and Limon cello sauce. The Broiled Alaskan Halibut has also become a customer favorite. Entrees range from $16.50 to $40.
In addition to wonderful dinner selections, Busch’s Grove has an impressive lunch menu, with salads and sandwiches ranging from $7.50 to $18.50. Popular items include the Maine lobster club and the grilled mini tenderloin sandwiches served on toasted brioche buns. The seafood cobb salad includes Maryland Crab and Gulf Shrimp, and is certainly worth a try.
Save room for one of Busch’s Grove’s fabulous desserts. Dessert specials, all priced at $7, include New York S&S cheesecake with fresh berries and a warm truffle cookie sundae. Their chocolate molten cake with espresso sauce and praline ice cream is another great choice.
Busch’s Grove is opened Monday through Saturday. Reservations are strongly recommended, especially on weekends.
Of embarking on the ambitious project, Miller says: “I’m 74…I wanted to do it. I could afford to do it, and I did it without a budget. I’m delighted I did it and would do it again.” Indeed, rumor has it that this septuagenarian has his sights set on creating yet
another distinctive place for St. Louis. Given to what he’s just accomplished, we can all look forward to that.
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TalkingPOINTS
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Busch’s Grove
9160 Clayton Road
St. Louis, MO
Phone: (314) 993-0011
www.buschsgrove.com
Lunch:
Mon–Sat 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Dinner:
Mon–Thurs 5:30 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Fri–Sat 5:30 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Valet parking available
Live entertainment |
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