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KitchenK

By Christine Imbs

Opening Kitchen K in the old Merchandise Mart building wasn’t what Pablo Weiss had in mind. But when opportunity knocked, he opened the door. What he saw was the chance to get in on the ground floor of the largest residential development in St. Louis—literally.

“With lofts being developed in the building, they wanted a restaurant on the bottom floor,” Weiss remembers. “It was a good opportunity. Not only would we be part of this tremendous restoration project, but we’d also be the only restaurant next to the [Renaissance Grand Hotel].”


Pablo Weiss, Kitchen K co-owner, shown at left. Kitchen K, located at the ground floor of the old Merchandise Mart building, offers a large menu, a good selection of spirits and atmosphere.

Weiss knows a thing or two about opportunities. In the mid-1990s he opened the successful Hot Locust Cantina and its spin-offs, The Side Door and Pablo’s. For a person originally planning to become a history professor, it was a strange jump. “I actually don’t have any formal culinary training, but I do have a history degree,” he says, laughing. “Fortunately, this is one business you can get into with a history degree, or by being a musician.”

Having an artist for a partner also helps. Like Weiss, Joe Papendick has no formal restaurant training. What he brings to the table is a natural talent for creating unique spaces, as well as culinary feasts. “Joe is our chef, although he really doesn’t consider himself one,” says Weiss. “But he does have all the qualifications, and his food is certainly chef-like.”

Papendick’s menu is large and features a wide variety of ethnic flavors. Of course, the standard salad and burger fare is available for about $7.95, but there are so many unique possibilities that going the usual route may not do Kitchen K justice. Weiss suggests the baked portobelos, with artichoke and asiago stuffing, or an eggplant and goat cheese melt on black bread—both for the same cost as the K-burger. Both are included on the everyday menu, along with Southwest Seafood Chowder ($5.95) and a Blackened Chicken Sandwich ($7.50).

The entrees offer an even greater opportunity for something different. Weiss says a favorite among customers is the Coriander-encrusted Mahi Mahi ($18.95), and the Jamaican Jerk Chicken ($15.95). These, too, are served everyday. But don’t neglect the daily specials or you may miss out on a Jamaican Reuben ($8.25), or perhaps Blackened Mako Shark ($17.50).

In addition to a large menu, Kitchen K also offers a good selection of spirits. There are 21 wines available—10 red, seven white, and four sparkling. With the exception of the sparkling wines, all are available by the glass ($4.00 - $9.75) or by the bottle ($16.00 - $39.00). The beer selection is impressive also. Along with Anheuser-Busch products, try brews such as Paulaner Hefeweizen, Duvel, La Fin Du Monde and Boulevard Wheat.

Although the food alone is a good reason to visit Kitchen K, the atmosphere is also well worth the trip. Weiss and Papendick have taken a 5,700-square-foot warehouse—with 22-foot ceilings—and somehow created a comfortable atmosphere where people love to congregate. “We have a lot of regulars, and most of my employees worked with me in other businesses,” Weiss says. “So we’re like a big family. That and the design makes this a very comfortable place.”

Kitchen K offers diners and staff plenty of opportunity to mix. The open kitchen brings food preparation out front, and the diner-inspired lunch counter encourages conversation between customers and staff. You’ll also find a large bar area to meet with friends, and a mezzanine overlooking the dining room for parties of up to 25. If it’s people watching you enjoy, the 12-foot-high windows offer an unobstructed view of passers by.

“People really seem to like what we’ve done here,” says Weiss. “We’ve become a neighborhood hubbub of activity. And that’s exactly what we’d hoped for.”

Kitchen K
Bar & Restaurant

1000 Washington Ave.
Monday-Thursday: 11 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Saturday: Noon to 11 p.m.
Bar closes at 1 a.m. daily
Closed Sunday
(314) 241-9900
http://www.kitchen-k.com


Christine Imbs is a freelance writer based in St. Louis.
 

 

 


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