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ZIA'S

By Christine Imbs

Ask anybody on The Hill where to get a good meal, and you’re likely to hear “everywhere.” Here in this traditionally Italian neighborhood in South St. Louis, there seems to be a wonderful restaurant on practically every corner.

But for lovers of exceptional food and wine, Zia’s is a great place to start. For the past 18 years, owners Dennis and Angelo Chiodini have stood shoulder to shoulder with some outstanding competition. And for two former busboys, that’s not too bad. “I guess owning a restaurant was inevitable,” says Dennis Chiodini.


Head Chef Matthew Welch shows a sampling of Zia's finery.

The brothers opened their restaurant in May 1984 in what was once Consolino’s grocery store. They named it after their two aunts (zia is the Italian word for aunt) who were great cooks and who provided most of the recipes.

“Naturally they had some say in the business,” says Chiodini with a chuckle. “They wanted to make sure we got the recipes right.”

No worries there—the food is great and consistent. “That’s one of the things that make us so successful. In some restaurants a meal never tastes the same way twice,” he explains. “Our food tastes the same today, tomorrow and next year.”

That consistency comes, in part, from using the exact same sauces since the very beginning. It’s these sauces, along with their sweet Italian dressing, that have helped make Zia’s a favorite. So much so the brothers began bottling it. “Our customers kept asking to take some home,” Chiodini explains. “We were just putting it in to-go containers for them.”

Purchasing the products may bring a taste of Zia’s home, but it’s not quite the same as paying a visit. Just ask former Cardinals slugger Mark McGwire.

“He loves our toasted ravioli,” Chiodini says, smiling. “I got a phone call from a California restaurant owner who says McGwire wanted him to find out how we do it. He can’t get anything like it out there.”

Unlike the flat, hard, tasteless squares normally served in restaurants, Zia’s version is crammed with filling for $5.25. But if you prefer something a bit different, Zia’s Pomodori Fritti ($5.50), fried tomato slices with melted provel cheese, is also a good choice.

Calamari lovers will be pleased with the Calamari Fritti ($6.95), served with a lemon butter sauce. Chiodini says they serve about 300 pounds per week. Even those who normally shy away from eating tentacled creatures say Zia’s calamari is the exception.

Pasta is always a good choice. The Seafood Ravioli ($7.50) in a garlic cream sauce is an especially nice change from its red-sauced cousin. Another excellent alternative is the house specialty, Tuttomare ($11.25). If you love pasta loaded with seafood, this is a must.

Of course, Italian cuisine is much more than pasta, and Zia’s dinner menu has an ample selection of beef, chicken, fish and veal entrees. Pollo Alla Spiedini Prosciutto ($13.75), charbroiled chicken breast with white wine lemon butter sauce and prosciutto ham, is a customer favorite. So is the Chicken Marsala ($12.95), which uses a traditional Marsala wine sauce.


If you love wine with your meal but aren’t certain what to order, suggestions are listed alongside each entrée. But Chiodini stresses they are just suggestions. “In reality,” he says, “the best wine is whatever you like to drink.”

A great ending to your meal is Tiramisu ($3.25). It’s the house dessert specialty consisting of ladyfingers soaked in Kahlua and rum, layered with Italian custard. Even Chiodini admits, “You don’t want to know how many calories are in this,” but go for it anyway. The portion is large enough for two or even three to share—well worth the extra gym time.

TALKING POINTS

Zia’s Restaurant and Catering Co.
5256 Wilson Ave. (on the corner of Wilson and Edwards streets)
Opens 11 a.m., Monday through Saturday
(314) 776-0020 (phone)
(314) 776-5778 (fax)
zias@zias.com

www.zias.com


Christine Imbs is a freelance writer based in St. Louis.




 

 

 


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