By Sarah B. Smith
Thirty-three-year-old Paul Manno literally grew up in the restaurant
business. Starting at 8, he bussed tables and grew to intimately
learn all facets of the business at his family’s restaurants
in West St. Louis County. So it should have come as no surprise
to Paul Manno Sr. that, when he asked his son at age 21 what
he wanted to do in life, the answer was simple: the restaurant
business.
Shortly afterwards, Father and Son found a location in an unpretentious
Chesterfield shopping center to get their venture started. That
was October 1995. Thirteen years later, the restaurant continues
to thrive and receive great reviews for their distinctive Italian
cuisine.
The inspiration for the restaurant’s cuisine comes from Manno’s
parents. Both Paul and mother Concetta are from Sicily, where
they continue to spend several months each year with their extended
families. “Mom taught me the basics,” says Manno. “Starting
from age 10, she would say, ‘stand next to me and watch.’ I
had the longest apprenticeship.”
The offerings at the restaurant are “old school, simple, Italian
home cooking—and that’s it,” says Manno. “Here, we do things
one way—it’s my way. It’s a strong Sicilian influence, foods
that I grew up on, foods my Mother made me for lunch. I was
probably the only kid going to school with a veal parmigan sandwich.”
The menu reflects the warmth of what it must have been like
to grow up a Manno. “We have traditional dishes on our menu—chicken
parmesan, chicken marsala, veal parmesan—but there are also
certain things that my Mom would make on Sundays that I always
wanted other people to try because they were missing out,” says
Paul. One of those pasta dishes—and Paul’s favorite—is “Sunday
Gravy,” a thick tomato sauce with pork and Italian sausage that
has stewed for hours. Manno prepares the special a few times
a week, and serves it with a generous portion of ricotta cheese
on top.
For
appetizers ($7.50 to $13), the restaurant offers some classics,
such as antipasto freddo (assorted Italian meats, cheese, olives
and tomato), calamari (offered fried or with tomato sauce),
or cannelloni. However, Manno suggests customers consider starting
the meal with an appetizer portion of pasta. “If you start the
meal with pasta and wine, you are starting with a great duo—it
just gets better from there!” claims Manno.
Regulars to Paul Manno’s (and there are many!) know that the
family prides itself on serving the freshest fish. While the
selections will vary on any given evening, the Chilean sea bass
and seared sea scallops (sauced with either lemon or cream with
Portobello mushrooms) are very popular.
Paul Manno’s veal selections (staring at $21.95) are also extensive.
I enjoyed the vitello panna, which was prepared with cream,
sherry and mushrooms. If you are interested in selecting pasta
for an entrée, your choices are extensive. Their penne amatriciana
(Italian sausage, white wine, with a touch of red pepper in
a spicy tomato sauce) and penne alla vodka were both delicious.
Beware of the very generous portions!
The wine list at Paul Manno’s is also extensive, with the majority
of them coming from Italy. While the selections include many
established names, there are some from remote villages in Sicily,
courtesy of the Manno family connections. “They make their wine
to go with the food,” says Manno, who does his best to convince
his customers to think outside the box when it comes to trying
new wines.
Ending the evening with a dessert is a must here. I selected
the cannoli—made the Sicilian way with homemade ricotta cheese
in shells made fresh daily by one of the Manno cousins. I was
not disappointed. Another popular selection is their Italian
cheesecake. The Manno version is much lighter than the traditional
New York version, featuring two layers of white soft cake with
mascarpone cheese in the middle. The result is naturally sweet
and creamy.
The décor of Paul Manno’s is reminiscent of a little corner
restaurant in New York City, complete with Sinatra and rat pack
memorabilia and music, and the casual buzz of customers having
a splendid evening. For folks who only have tried the best of
the Hill, Paul Manno’s is well worth the trip to Olive and Woods
Mill Road.
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TalkingPOINTS
Paul Manno’s
75 Forum Shopping Center (Olive and Woods Mill Road)
Chesterfield, MO 63017
314-878-1274
Hours: Monday thru Thursday: 5 to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 5 to 11 p.m.
Reservations are recommended |
