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Vin de Set

By Sarah B. Smith

Wendy and Paul Hamilton, the successful owners of highly acclaimed Eleven Eleven Mississippi, weren’t necessarily looking to start a new restaurant. They were hunting for the only thing lacking at their popular bistro in the Lafayette neighborhood of the City of St. Louis—space for events and meetings.

Their search throughout the historic neighborhood brought them to the former Centennial Malt House at 2017 Chouteau Avenue. In spite of the severely dilapidated state of the of the 136 year old building, the Hamiltons saw an enormous opportunity to not only create a banquet facility, but a restaurant with a spectacular rooftop terrace overlooking the City’s skyline. Equally important, they saw saving the historic building as an opportunity to give back to the community.

Working with architect Thomas Hilton Cohen and Executive Chef Ivy Magruder, the Hamiltons have created in Vin de Set a unique menu with outstanding food and an inviting atmosphere that has become a new St. Louis destination and a contributor to the City’s burgeoning revival.

The carefully restored three-story building features vaulted ceilings and exposed brick walls. Oversized French posters painted onto the walls by On the Wall Productions add to the ambiance. The huge rooftop terrace, bistro and bar are located on the third floor, with Moulin—the name for their event and meetings facility—housed on the second and main levels. The bistro on the third floor, with seating for 120, is simple and casually elegant and lets the charm of the historic space speak for itself. An enormous skylight, under lit at night and seen from Highway 40, adds to the unique flavor of the space. The adjacent bar features one of the few known remaining small models of the famous Louis IX statue that graces the entrance to the Art Museum. The Hamiltons unearthed it in the building’s basement, and brought it back to its prominence. The outdoor terrace is a dramatic focal point. And with seating for 120 and spectacular panoramic City views, it is one of just a handful of rooftop dining opportunities in St. Louis.

The Hamiltons and Chef Magruder describe Vin de Set as “an American twist on a French bistro.” The name is derived from the phonetic spelling of the French number ‘vingt dix-sept’ for their 2017 address. According to Magruder, the inspiration for many of their menu selections came from a trip the Hamiltons, Magruder and his wife took to Europe.“ The four of us spent 10 glutinous days in France,” says Magruder. While other tourists were snapping photos of the quaint French countryside, the two couples sought out the best cuisine and snapped pictures of food.

Magruder, who was the original chef at Eleven Eleven Mississippi before embarking on this new venture with the Hamiltons, has thrived on the challenge of creating this new culinary experience. One of the menu’s unique features is the plat du jour—a prix fix meal consisting of the guest’s choice of three courses. This is giving Magruder an opportunity to take advantage of the freshest ingredients and experiment with new selections daily.

Appetizers, which start at $7, range from frog legs—flash fried with saffron aioli—and escargot over puff pastry to delicious steamed mussels and clams. A variety of crepes—such as ratatouille and ricotta, or chicken, spinach and leeks—are also a delicious way to start the Vin de Set experience.

Entrees, affordably priced in the $11 to $23 range, feature delicious selections such as pan seared duck and grilled New York strip steak served with brandy peppercorn sauce. Bouillabaisse and roasted leg of lamb also have become guest favorites. Those looking for lighter options might enjoy the spinach and sweet onion quiche, or classic croque-monsieur style sandwiches.

Pastry chef Cheryl Herbert creates delicious desserts. We were particularly impressed with her truffles—rolled in coconut, deep-fried and served with three sauces—and the upside down apple tart with ice cream and caramel sauce.

The Vin de Set wine list is extensive and with 150+ selections could be intimidating. However, with many price points and a knowledgeable wait staff, there are great wines for under $30.

In 1876, the Centennial Malt House was turning barley into malt at 2017 Chouteau. As 2006 comes to a close, it is exciting to see restaurant entrepreneurs turning an abandoned historic building into a fine dining restaurant with one of the most spectacular views in St. Louis.

 
TalkingPOINTS

Vin de Set
2017 Choteau Avenue
St Louis, Missouri 63103

(314) 241-8989
www.vindeset.com

Restaurant Hours:
Sun., Tues. – Thur.: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Fri. and Sat.: 5 p.m. to midnight

Valet parking available on weekends
Reservations recommended








 

 

 


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