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MIHALIS CHOPHOUSE & ONYX BAR
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By Christine Imbs
At one time, if you wanted a good steak, you went to a chophouse. A chophouse was a restaurant run by a butcher who cut all of his meat on the premises. At Mihalis Chophouse in Dogtown, that tradition continues. Owner Michael Malliotakis, himself a butcher’s son, grew up knowing his way around a slab of meat. Add to that his Greek flair, and you’ve got a rather unique dining experience.
“I lived in Rodos, an island close to Turkey,” he says. “There you saw a blending of a lot of different cultures. That’s what I wanted here. True, this is an American chophouse, but with a Greek flavor.”
 Owner Michael Malliotakis and Partner and Executive Chef Teresa Martine |
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Part of that flavor includes bringing back the Greek tradition of mezes. Most people around St. Louis know them as either tapas or antipasto. But Malliotakis says it’s really more unique to Greece.
“People would meet at the coffee shops where they would order ouzo, and mezes just came with it,” he explains. “You’d sit and eat, drink, talk, laugh. It was very unique. We want to get this going here.”
He’s doing it by having special wines featured. Order a bottle of the featured wine and you automatically get the mezes. Of course, mezes can be ordered any time, and there is quite a nice variety from which to choose. But the “house meze,” called Mihalis Tradition, is exceptional. It’s an olive relish with tomatoes and fresh basil served with grilled flatbread, and your choice of infused oils. A delicious Greek repast, it even replaces the standard dinner rolls in the main dining area.
Enjoying the wine and mezes becomes even more pleasant in the Onyx Bar. In fact, just walking into the bar is an experience. The honey onyx bar top is lit from beneath, giving it a soft glow. Viewed through the glass doors at night, this and the lighted back bar just
beckons you in. Once inside it’s very open,
and very comfortable, and you’re greeted with the soft sounds of jazz. You can sit at the bar
or at the tables quite leisurely. But if you
really want to get cozy, there’s a loft area upstairs complete with couches, and there’s a basement wine cellar with soft mood lighting, plush booths and a view of the 2,000 bottles
of wine Mihalis keeps on hand, neatly presented behind clear glass.
“It makes a really nice atmosphere to sit and enjoy your wine and mezes,” says partner and executive chef Teresa Martine. “And the wine is priced between $12 and $200 per bottle.”
The décor at Mihalis simply must be seen
to get the full affect. It’s done in earth tones with splashes of color like cayenne for accent. The stairs leading to the lounge and wine cellar are a unique combination of walnut and
cork. And the entire wall along the lounge stairs is done in a shimmering gold leaf. It’s best seen at night, with the soft lighting and the glowing onyx.
As with the front of the Onyx Bar, the main dining area has a series of glass doors which gives the impression of openness. And the booths lining one wall are separated with tall walnut panels, giving you the feeling of private dining. But, although the décor and atmosphere is incredible, it’s the food that really makes you want to stand up and shout, “Opa!”
| Chef Mike Padilla |
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As you might expect, the specialties at Mihalis include its steaks. And who can argue when they come cooked to perfection, and so tender you could cut them with a butter knife. Big favorites are the 12 oz. Rib Eye for $23 and the 6 oz. Steak Au Poivire, a tellicherry and pink peppercorn encrusted filet for $18. Both will tickle your taste buds, but the peppercorn coating makes the Steak Au Poivire especially good.
Of course, every meal should begin with a good appetizer, and at Mihalis there are two seafood appetizers of particular note. For $23 there’s the Chilled Seafood Trio for two served in a huge martini glass. It includes shrimp, blue claw crab and mussels topped with a lime aioli. The Lobster Risotto for $14 is also quite good. It’s a mound of risotto mixed with corn, baby spinach, shallots, parmesan cheese, a lobster stock and white wine reduction.
Malliotakis says Mihalis is not a place for formal dining. “It’s more fine dining without the white tablecloths,” he explains. “There’s nothing pretentious here. We want people to come, to be comfortable, and to enjoy.”
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TALKINGPOINTS
Mihalis Chophouse & Onyx Bar
1603 McCausland Avenue
(314) 333-3301
Hours:
Closed Mondays,
Tuesday–Sundays, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Onyx Bar opens at 4 p.m.
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