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MONARCH
By Christine Imbs
Change is inevitable, but not always welcome. But at Monarch in Maplewood change is part of its mystique. And like its butterfly namesake, customers are finding each metamorphosis a very pleasant surprise.
 Monarch’s contemporary bar. |
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“Just like our name, we’re ever-changing,” says co-owner Jeff Orbin. “Our customers can come here many times and yet have a different experience each time they visit.”
Just trying out the different dining areas will do this. There’s a private dining room accessible only through a glass-enclosed wine room, a private chef’s table overlooking the kitchen, a contemporary bar, a formal dining room, and a bistro which can be either open air or closed. There’s also a small art gallery displaying works by St. Louis artists.
“We don’t charge any commission so the artist doesn’t have to inflate their prices,” Orbin comments. “It’s a pretty good deal. And of course what’s on display will frequently change as new pieces are added.”
Also changing frequently are the menus. There are actually two, one for the formal dining area and one for the more casual bistro. Both change every two months. The cuisine has an international flair combining the flavors of the Southwest, Asia and France. And fish seems to take a dominant role.
“Our chef, Brian Hale, loves fish and flies it in fresh everyday,” Orbin explains. “Of course, there was some concern over the amount we had on our menu, but St. Louisans seem to be taking to it.”
Lunch entrees in Monarch’s bistro will run you anywhere from $7.95 to $11.95, and
dinner entrees from $17.95 to $20.95. Only dinner is served in the more formal dining area with prices ranging from $17.95 up to about $32.95.
Although the menus are seasonal, Monarch does have its signature dishes that are standard menu fare. In the bistro, the Lobster Macaroni and Cheese, with blue crab and shrimp tossed with gemelli noodles in a lobster Mornay sauce is a big favorite. So much so it was featured in the August 2004 issue of “Bon Appetit.” You can enjoy this unique take on an old favorite at lunch for $11.95, or at dinner for $17.95.
In the more formal dining area, customers rave about the Pistachio Encrusted Lamb Chops served with whipped Yukon gold potatoes, sautéed spinach, shitake beurre blanc, and a Bing cherry demi glace. The Braised Boneless Beef Short Ribs served with thyme roasted creamer potatoes, cabernet reduction, green beans, and caramelized onions, is another crowd pleaser. Both are priced at $26.95.
The wine selection at Monarch is outstanding. They have about 500 selections to choose from, ranging from $17 per bottle up to thousands of dollars. But Orbin’s partner, Aaron Teitlebaum, says don’t let that intimidate you.
“For a young restaurant we have an aggressive wine program. We just gained our first level of the Wine Spectator Award. But we don’t want to come off as pretentious,” he says. “To help keep our wine program friendly, we put the wine cellar in the middle of the dining room. This way anyone drinking wine, whether it is an $18 bottle or a $1,000 bottle, can go in with the captain and choose their selection. It takes the intimidation away.”
On average Teitlebaum says you can expect to pay anywhere from $17 to $50 per bottle of wine. They also offer 30 different wines by the glass for as little as $5 on up to $8. But if wine is not your forte, Monarch has also added about 30 different beers to their menu including a St. Louis favorite, Schlafly.
| The wine cellar, located in the middle of the dining room, is filled with hundreds of different selections. |
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“We’re very fond of Schlafly’s and it’s right in our neighborhood. But we also carry beer from all over the world,” says Teitlebaum. “Depending on whether or not you go for a very special beer, the cost will be between $3.50 and $8 a glass.”
If you’re considering a visit to Monarch, you may want to plan ahead. Reservations are required Thursday through Saturday even for the bistro and highly recommended the rest of the week.
TALKING POINTS
Monarch
7401 Manchester Road
Maplewood, MO 63143
(314) 644-3995
Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.,
Tuesday through Friday
Dinner: 5 to 11 p.m.,
Tuesday through Saturday
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