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By Sarah B.
Smith
Tucked into a quiet street in the historic neighborhood of Benton
Park is Niche, an inspiring fine dining addition to Sidney Street.
Niche is an impeccably designed restaurant full of spirit, unique
preparations, and an interesting perspective on St. Louis. The name’s
function is two-fold: it not only describes the long, narrow restaurant’s
quaint position between two buildings, but also, as Executive Chef/
Owner Gerard Craft describes, “somebody’s calling in life.”
Indeed, when Craft and his wife, Susan, decided to follow their
calling and start their first restaurant, the couple determined
to do so somewhere new. So began their search for a city with the
perfect mix of affordability, growth, interest, and design. “We
looked at areas that were up-and-coming, areas going through urban
rejuvenations,” says Craft. What struck the Washington D.C. native
most about St. Louis? “When I saw the architecture here, that’s
what really sealed the deal, that and all of the great restaurants
and eaters.”
The pair worked closely with architects from Epoch Design Group
on the design and extensive renovation of the 1,400-square-foot
establishment on Sidney Street. Alderwoman Phyllis Young actively
supported the team’s restoration efforts. “She made working with
the City a breeze,” says Craft.
The entire storefront was removed and meticulously restored. The
Crafts paid particular attention to the lighting and color effects
in the restaurant to create a modern, elegant feel. Photographs
by Craft’s father and a mural by Cliff Gokenbach add to the welcoming
ambiance of the space. Diners have felt so welcome in fact, that
the Crafts are in the process of expanding to add a private dining
room.
These St. Louis newcomers were pleasantly surprised by the unique
clientele that the region offered them. During the opening months,
the forty-five seats were occupied mostly by the hip, young diners
accounting for so much of the City’s urban renewal. Soon, however,
older suburban clients and CEOs joined the mix, prompted by their
young adult children to try this new St. Louis urban dining experience. “One
of the coolest things about the restaurant is the clientele,” says
Craft. “Both generations meet so easily and comfortably.”
Gerard
Craft, executive chef/owner, Niche |
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The menu is limited, but delicious, ever changing and surprisingly
affordable. The experience begins with “To Nosh On,” tapas-like
selections, which include items such as amazing, plump, juicy marinated
olives from France, or grilled flat bread served with an olive tapenade
and white bean puree. “First Things First” features items such
as beautiful and tasty chilled beet soup or seared scallops. On
a recent visit, I tried the fresh white Illinois asparagus presented
atop a poached farmhouse egg, garnished with parmesan cheese and
tarragon vinaigrette. Divine. Another great choice is Craft’s alternative
to fois-gras, chicken liver terrine flavored with an orange-date
compote.
Craft continues to add unique twists to classic dishes in his
“On To Bigger Things” menu. His braised lamb shank served with
polenta, sweet corn, wild mushrooms, and amber bock is as warm and
inviting as it is modern and distinctive. While the chef is constantly
revising the menu depending on the availability of interesting ingredients,
Craft frequently includes superbly prepared halibut and Grimaud
Farms duck, as well as meatless items, such as the vegetable tart
with spring vegetables, ricotta, caramelized onions and champagne
vinaigrette.
The meal concludes with “Sweet Dreams” made by the talented in-house
pastry chef, Mathew Rice. This culinary artist creates a selection
of house made sorbets; unique flavors, such as strawberry-lime can
be ordered a la mode, or are often included in other desserts. Chocolate
lovers may want to try the liquid chocolate cake with malted milk
chocolate ice cream. My favorite was the refreshing strawberry cream
cheese panna cotta, offered with the strawberry-lime sorbet. This
strawberry daiquiri dessert was the perfect conclusion to a hot
St. Louis summer evening.
Diners can try any three of these delicious courses for only thirty
dollars—a great deal. Craft provides a wine selection that is just
as satisfying as his dishes, and budget friendly. Wines by the glass
are $7 and most bottles are in the $20-$35 range. He also offers
a carafe of wine for just $10.
As the restaurant continues to grow both in size and popularity,
diners from through out the region can look forward to St. Louis’
new Niche.
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TalkingPOINTS
niche
1831 Sidney Street
St. Louis, MO
(314) 773-7755
dinner:
Tuesday-Thursday 5:30 to 9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Reservations recommended |
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