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Left
to right:
General Manager John P. McElwain and Chef Dave Owens. |
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The eastern
section of the Central West End of St. Louis is experiencing a renaissance.
Consider some recent additions: McCormack Baron Salazar’s high tech
design of the 6 North Apartments and adjoining coffee shop, the
Scottish Arms Pub and Restaurant, the CORTEX I Building as part
of the new several hundred-acre CORTEX Life Sciences District, Amy
and Amrit Gill’s cool Moolah Theatre and Coronado historic restorations,
and the continued expansion of the Center for Emerging Technologies
on Forest Park Parkway.
Nestled quietly in the middle of it all is Sarah Street, where Terrene,
one of St. Louis’ newest restaurants has made its home. And what
a home it is. Built in 1897 and designed by Barnett Haynes and Barnett,
the architectural firm noted for the design of the Cathedral Basilica
of St. Louis, the Post Dispatch Building and many palatial homes
in the Central West End, Terrene’s characterizes what is refreshing
about the neighborhood—a respect for history with a contemporary
twist.
Terrene’s represents the creative passions of two St. Louis families.
Real estate developer John E. McElwain purchased the building and
oversaw the extensive renovation. Art consultant and spouse Mary
McElwain contributed her fine design savvy and their son, John P.
McElwain, is general manager. Dave Owens, formerly of Cardwells
on the Plaza, is chef and is assisted on the weekends by his wife
Margaret Kelly. The families worked together from concept to execution,
and the product of their synergy shows in both the dining and aesthetic
experience.
According to General Manager John McElwain, Terrene’s ‘of the earth’
concept influences all aspects of the business. Chef Owens goes
to great lengths to serve food made from fresh and sustainable ingredients.
Local farms in Illinois and Missouri provide many of the products.
Triple filtered water is used for cooking and drinking, and Terrene
sends its vegetable trimmings to new Roots Urban Garden in North
St. Louis for compost.
The same attention to detail and respect for the environment has
gone into the ambiance: from the tabletops made from recycled materials,
to the original tin ceiling, to bamboo plywood menu clipboards,
and wood floor in the bar crafted from the old Vashon High School
gymnasium floor.
Chef Owens changes the lunch and dinner menus frequently, depending
on product availability. But if recent visits are indicative, the
cuisine will be top notch, regardless of the day of the week.
For appetizers, we found the veggie sausage flatbread delightful.
Another great choice were the mussels flown in from Prince Edward
Island and served in white wine sofrito broth with garlic toast.
The impressive selection of appetizers is appealingly priced from
$5 to $10.
The seafood stew is a top dinner and lunch selection. Like other
seafood items on the menu, the ingredients come from sustainably-managed
sources.
Another popular lunch choice is the grilled bird salad; a delicious
herb rubbed and grilled chicken breast with roasted peppers, falafel,
feta cheese and olive vinaigrette. Chef Owens also offers an interesting
selection of sandwiches and wraps, priced in the $10 range.
One of Chef Owens’ personal favorites for lunch or dinner is the
tofu. He currently serves it ‘cacciatore’ style, braised in white
wine tomato sauce with shiitake mushrooms, celery, onions and steamed
brown rice. The grilled flank steak is another high point for dinner
selections, and comes with shiitake mushrooms and butternut squash.
Entrees are reasonably priced at $16 to $24.
The wine list is as thoughtfully developed as other aspects of the
restaurant. General Manager John McElwain and Chef Owens have made
selections with menu pairings in mind. Prices range from $6 to $10
by the glass, and $24 to $79 by the bottle.
By all means, save room for the sweets. Pastry Chef Cheyenne Modglin’s
creations are meant to be savored. High on my list is the key lime
tart. Served with home made marshmallow fluff, rum candied pineapple
and tropical sauce, each bite is delicious. Lovers of chocolate
may want to try “chocolate 33”, a dessert that pairs Bissingers
drinking chocolate with a ‘chile spiked’ walnut fudge cake. Each
evening also features specially made ice cream and sorbets.
In addition to the main dining room, which includes an impressive
32-foot mural by Gary Passanise, Terrene boasts a sleek bar area,
replete with fireplace. And don’t miss what will quickly become
one of St. Louis’ favorite dining experiences—a multi-tier linear
outdoor dining garden, which will create a tree canopied oasis along
Sarah Street.
Terrene’s great location makes it a wonderful choice for those heading
to a performance in nearby Grand Center, or a movie at the Moolah.
Their menu defines “terrene” as an adjective meaning “of the earth.”
After several visits, I would suggest adding it as a new verb—as
in “to terrine”—meaning: “to do it right.”
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TALKINGPOINTS
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Terrene
33 N. Sarah
St. Louis, MO 63108
(314) 535-5100
Complimentary valet parking available on weekends.
Lunch: Tuesday – Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday – Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m. Sunday – 5 to 9 p.m. |
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